Can I eat vegetarian or vegan here?
Short answer
The tourism board calls Vietnam one of the most vegetarian-friendly countries in the world. One word finds you the restaurant — chay. A second phrase is the one that actually keeps fish sauce off the plate.
One word, on signs and menus
Chay — pronounced roughly chai — is the word for vegetarian food, and it does most of the work. On a shopfront it appears as quán chay or cơm chay, which is what to scan for when you are looking for a place rather than a dish.
On a regular menu the same word marks the meat-free versions: phở chay, bánh mì chay, gỏi cuốn chay. To say it about yourself, the tourism board gives Tôi ăn chay — I eat vegetarian — with không thịt, no meat, as the shorter fallback.
The phrase that matters more than the first one
Fish sauce is the base seasoning of this cuisine, which means a plate with nothing meaty visible on it is not automatically vegetarian. The tourism board names the exact phrase for this and calls it important when placing orders: không nước mắm, no fish sauce.
Say it when you order rather than after the food arrives. In a dedicated chay restaurant it is unnecessary; everywhere else it is the difference between a vegetarian meal and a meal that merely looks like one.
Two days a month the country helps
Vietnamese Buddhists eat meat-free on the 1st and 15th of the month. On those days restaurants put out extensive vegetarian options and morning markets fill with meat-free dishes — the supply widens without anyone having to ask for it.
The other reliable geography is religious rather than commercial: vegetarian kitchens cluster around pagodas, sometimes filling whole streets. If a search for a restaurant is going badly, walking towards the nearest temple is a better strategy than another search.
Good to know
- chay is the word — look for quán chay or cơm chay on the sign
- Say không nước mắm when you order, not after the food arrives
- The 1st and 15th of the month widen the options everywhere